Rare is the cook who turns out feather light biscuits. Transforming flour, fat and buttermilk into an airy breakfast treat takes what the old folks dubbed “biscuit hands.” Eula Mae Doré had them. The famed cook, who lived most of her life on Avery Island, running the commissary store and cooking fabled dinners for the McIlhenny family died on Saturday at her home on the island.
Doré grew up in Coteau, a country girl, with the raw ingredients of Cajun cooking surrounding her on her family’s farm. Her mother died when she was 10, leaving her to tend to her siblings. That’s when she began cooking, using everything at hand from the fresh pork from the annual boucherie to picking blackberries and pecans for her pies. When she was 20, she married Walter Doré and moved to Avery Island. She began her life on the island in the Tabasco bottling plant, but within a few years, she and her husband, whom she called MoNeg, were running the small commissary on the island, making famed poboys at lunchtime, and turning out the deeply flavorful bisques and gumbos served on the McIlhenny tables at night.
When Doré was 71, Paul McIlhenny persuaded her to collaborate on a cookbook with St. Martinville author and chef Marcelle Bienvenu. It was an adventure, Bienvenu says in her introduction to Eula Mae’s Cajun Kitchen. Bienvenu arrived on the first day, equipped with measuring spoons and cups, a small kitchen scale and a tape measure. Doré told her she used an old jar or the palm of her hand to measure. They had to work that one out. “By the end of the day, I realized what a special lady and cook she was,” Bienvenu wrote. “I noted that she never wastes anything. The seeds of bell peppers were put in a small container to take home and plant in her garden. The skins from the yellow onions were stowed in a bag. “Darling, keep the skins and put them in the freezer. Put them in the pot when you’re making shrimp stock to make it golden colored,” Doré told Bienvenu.
Thrifty country wisdom and intuitive cooking tips permeate the book as well as spicing the relationship between the two women. While working on the book, which took three years, Bienveun says food writers and television crews frequently came to the island to interview and film Doré cooking one of her specialities. She has cooked alongside renowned chefs Pierre Franey, Jacques Pepin, Marion Cunningham and Sheila Lukins, as well as appearing in PBS specials and on the Food Network.
Throughout her long career, Doré remained a loving and generous nurturer, feeding her friends and family with the best the earth and waters had to offer. She was 78 when she died. For all the gifts she offered so freely, for a life lived with so much grace, merci beaucoup, Eula Mae.
There will soon be a whole lot of shakin’ going on at Benny’s Sportshack Supplement Depot, a new concept by Opelousas native Benny Nele. Located at 2002 Johnston St., the supplement shop, smoothie bar and café, featuring hot off the press paninis and wraps, plans to open in late May.
Philip deMahy Sr., a once respected New Iberia ad exec, was sentenced May 2 to spend the next two years (he faced up to 100 years) in a state penitentiary after state and federal investigators found dozens of images depicting children engaged in lewd sexual acts on his personal computer.
This year’s Cool Town issue is all about people who are not native to South Louisiana but made a conscious decision to be here, to be among us, to participate in our culture and contribute to it.
A shelved ordinance transferring $200,000 from a northside drainage project to a south Lafayette development may not break any laws, but it stinks to high heaven.
An effort to restore a shuttered dancehall and document other vacant or razed honky-tonks could serve as a model for saving an endangered species of entertainment.
Lafayette’s gene pool has been host to a long line of eccentric characters who have blurred the lines between crazy, genius, disturbed and curiously entertaining.